Retinol: The Gold Standard in Skincare — But Not All Retinols Are Created Equal
Retinol has been called the Holy Grail of skincare for decades — and for good reason. It is one of the most researched and clinically proven ingredients for transforming the skin. From smoothing fine lines and improving texture to clearing acne and fading pigment, retinol is one of the few topical ingredients that can truly change the way skin behaves on a cellular level.
But here’s what most people don’t realize: not all retinols are created equally, and not every skin is ready for retinol. The right formulation, strength, and application method determine whether you experience beautiful results or irritation and sensitivity.
Let’s break down why retinol matters — and how to use it properly.
Why Retinol Works — The Science
Retinol is a vitamin A derivative that speeds up how quickly skin cells renew themselves. As we age, cell turnover slows dramatically — collagen breaks down, pigment becomes uneven, pores look larger, and fine lines develop.
Retinol directly targets these changes by:
Increasing collagen and elastin production
Accelerating cell turnover
Reducing excess oil production
Improving pigment irregularities
Tightening pores and refining texture
In other words: retinol resets skin that has slowed due to aging, sun damage, and environmental stress.
Not All Retinols Are the Same
There are many forms of vitamin A in skincare, ranging from very gentle to very strong. They do not work — or feel — the same.
Below is a comparison of the different forms of Vitamin A, their strength, and where to find them
Retinyl palmitate- Mild Stength- Drugstore skincare
Retinol- Moderate Strength- Over-the-counter products
Retinaldehyde- Strong- Medical-grade products
Retinoic acid (tretinoin)- Very strong- Prescription only
AlphaRet® / advanced encapsulated blends- Strong but gentle- Medical grade + professional lines
The major difference is absorption and conversion. The more steps required to convert into retinoic acid (the active form the skin recognizes), the less powerful the result. That’s why drugstore retinol ≠ medical-grade retinol — even if the % looks similar on the label.
Proper Use Matters More Than Strength
Using a strong retinol incorrectly can do more harm than good. The goal is steady progress, not peeling and irritation.
Best practices for success:
Start 1–2 nights per week
Apply only a pea-sized amount to the full face
Avoid the eyelids and corners of the nose
Always follow with moisturizer (retinol loves hydration)
Never combine with exfoliating acids the same night
SPF every morning — no exceptions
Once the skin adapts, gradually increase to 3–5 nights per week for maximum collagen stimulation.
When Skin Reacts — It’s Not Always a “Bad Fit”
Dryness, flakiness, and sensitivity are common during the adjustment phase — especially if the skin barrier is compromised or hydration is lacking. This doesn’t mean you should stop retinol. It simply means the routine needs refinement.
Pairing retinol with:
Barrier-strengthening moisturizers (Trio from SkinBetter is one of my favs)
Niacinamide
Peptides
Hyaluronic acid
…helps the skin tolerate retinol beautifully without sacrificing results.
The Sweet Spot: Medical-Grade Retinol
Professional formulations are designed to deliver results while maintaining skin comfort. They often use:
Encapsulation technology (slow release)
Retinoid + lactic acid blends
Barrier-strengthening ingredients
Professional guidance on strength progression
That’s why clients who “can’t use retinol” suddenly tolerate it — and love it — once they switch to the right formula and are guided through the process.
Bottom Line
Retinol is one of the most powerful, clinically proven anti-aging and skin-correcting ingredients available. But its success comes down to:
The form of retinol
The quality of formulation
How it’s used
How hydrated and protected the skin is
With the right guidance, retinol becomes a long-term game changer — not a source of irritation.
At Body & Co., we assess your skin, tolerance level, and goals to recommend the ideal retinol formulation — and we walk you through how to use it safely and effectively so you get results, not dryness.